
Wolf von Waldow – The History of the plot Talstraße 69–75, Hamburg St. Pauli
Research in context of the Art in Architecture project "Thalstraße" by Wolf von Waldow; 1999
The settlement of the St. Pauli area began around the mid-17th century. It lay between the city gates of Hamburg and the border with the city of Altona, which belonged to Denmark until 1864 and to Prussia from 1867. Due to its favorable strategic location, Altona repeatedly served as a starting point for attacks on Hamburg throughout history. Consequently, the suburb of St. Pauli was repeatedly completely destroyed (1686 by the Danes; 1813 by the French).
The area of today’s Talstraße was located directly on the border. In contrast to the already more densely settled Altona region, this area remained meadow and pastureland until the end of the 18th century, known as the “Niemanns Bleiche.” The actual border was formed by the Pepermölenbek, a stream that was filled in after 1845. Additionally, the border was fortified with a palisade fence. Along this fence ran a “border path” (Grenzgang). Passage into Danish territory was only possible through guarded gates on the Reeperbahn (Nobistor) and later also on Bleicherstraße.
After the complete destruction of St. Pauli during the French occupation of 1813/14, the area of Talstraße was first settled during the reconstruction. At that time, the last section until 1860 did not belong to Talstraße but was part of Klütjenstieg, which extended from today’s Bleicherstraße to Hamburger Berg. In this section, Klütjenstieg was built with small one- to two-story houses. The plots were very narrow and extended to the border path. Here lived craftsmen and small entrepreneurs (e.g., “Mr. Ramcke: Friction Match Manufacturer,” “Ms. Pfannenschmidt: Seamstress,” “Mr. Müller: Cigar Maker”). Even before the final removal of the city gate barrier in 1861, the area became interesting as a speculative property close to both the city and the port.
The old buildings were demolished between 1860 and 1865. Interestingly, the new construction was not uniform. In order to build larger rental houses, several plots had to be combined. Presumably, this was not easy due to the very narrow, long plots and the correspondingly complex ownership arrangements. Therefore, on some plots, construction of the rear houses began even though the older craftsmen’s houses in front still stood and were occupied (e.g., No. 73/75 front house built 1863, No. 73a rear house built 1862). In other locations, the front house was constructed and occupied first. Only two years later were the rear houses completed (No. 65/67/69/71 front houses; No. 67a – last remaining and occupied terrace, demolished only after 2000, following the completion of the current residential block).
Note: The long rear wings were referred to as “terraces” (Terrassen) in Hamburg.
(Historical numbering Talstraße 59–81, current numbering Talstraße 69–75)
| Vorderhaus | Bau | Abriss/Zerst. | Hinterhaus | Bau | Abriss/Zerst. |
| Nr. 59/61 | 1864 | 1963 (?) | Nr. 57 | 1865 | 1980 |
| Nr. 63 | 1864 | 1963 (?) | – | ||
| Nr. 65/67/69/71 | 1863 | 1944 | Nr. 67a | 1865 | nach 2000 |
| Nr. 73/75 | 1863 (?) | 1945/1965 | Nr. 73a | 1862 | 1945 |
| Nr. 77/81 | 1861 (?) | 1961 (?) | Nr. 79 | 1860 | 1944 |
The buildings were relatively spacious for their time. Since the street’s building line was apparently initially planned to be wider, the front houses were set slightly back, leaving space for small fenced forecourts or even front gardens. Shops were located on the ground floor. Although the terrace buildings of the individual plots were closely positioned at the rear, they had small, tree-lined utility gardens at the front. These were initially not workers’ quarters. Small craftsmen, employees, a striking number of “ship captains,” and also musicians lived here. The difference becomes clear when comparing this development with the much denser Jägerpassage two streets away, which had been intended for workers.
However, the quality of living deteriorated rapidly. Over time, the backyards were increasingly filled with workshops (1896: No. 73; No. 87/91), and the cellars were rented out as apartments. As a result, the social structure changed. By the 1880s, many workers already lived here. Individual houses fell into disrepair. In the 1920s, passersby, for example, complained about falling building parts at No. 73. It is no coincidence that Talstraße was one of the starting points for the hunger revolts in the spring of 1919. At the same time, however, this quarter – always under police suspicion – developed an unusually diverse, multi-ethnic lifestyle. For example, Schmuckstraße in the 1920s and early 1930s was a center of Chinese life in Hamburg.
The destruction of World War II affected only part of the buildings. Completely destroyed were only No. 65/67/69/71 – the front house of the terrace that existed until after 2000 – and No. 79 (terrace of No. 77/81). Partially destroyed was house No. 73/75 (front house and terrace). The remaining buildings survived the war more or less intact. Even partially destroyed houses were temporarily repaired because housing was scarce. From the early 1950s, property owners sought building permits for the reconstruction of their houses (1950: No. 65/67/69/71; 1958: No. 73/75). However, the city had other plans for the area.
A general restructuring of the entire district was planned. As part of this, a highway feeder road was to run across the area. At this point, however, the plans were probably still quite vague. To keep all options open, the city did everything possible to prevent new construction in the area. Legally, it had no basis for this, which was even admitted in internal administrative notes. Negotiations over a possible purchase of the plots were sometimes absurd: substitute plots were offered in exchange, even though the city did not yet own them; finally, purchase prices were agreed upon, but the city could not raise the funds (No. 73/75). Nevertheless, this strategy prevented the redevelopment of the area until the early 1960s. Only then did the city gradually purchase all the plots and demolish the houses, except for No. 67a (terrace to No. 65/67/69/71).
During this entire period, even the partial ruins were still inhabited. Tenants repeatedly applied for building materials for the most necessary repairs. Due to the catastrophic living conditions, the social authorities, of course, sought alternative housing – often against the explicit wishes of the residents, who did not want to leave the apartments they had sometimes occupied even before the war. Housing shortages were so severe that even vacated apartments had to be rendered “uninhabitable” until the second half of the 1950s to prevent new tenants from moving in. The highway feeder road was finally realized at the end of the 1960s as Simon-von-Utrecht-Straße. The other plans largely became obsolete due to lack of funds and probably also because they were politically unfeasible. It was only in the mid-1990s, thirty years after their evacuation, that the plots on Talstraße were redeveloped with residential buildings.
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| Thalstraße um 1900, Hamburg-St. Pauli; Blick von der heutigen Paul-Roosen/Clemens-Schultz-Str. Hausnummern 81-59, beginnend ab 3. Haus v. r.; 2. Haus v. r. heute noch erhalten |
| Quellen | ||
| Feuerakte Talstr. 73/75 | 1896-1965 | Staatsarchiv Hamburg |
| Bauantrag Talstr. 65/71 | 1950 | Bezirksamt Mitte, Hamburg |
| div. Stadt-, und Bebauungspläne | 1745-1981 | Staatsarchiv Hamburg, St.Pauli Archiv |
| Hamburger Adressbuch, div. Bände | 1840-1962 | Comerz Bibliothek, Hamburg |
| Im Schatten des großen Geldes. Wohnen auf St.Pauli. Hrsg.: St.Pauli Archiv, 1990 |
© Wolf v. Waldow, 1999
